Monday, October 14, 2019

Last weekend in London and Trip Back to Canada

My flight back to London on Ryan Air passed without incident although I was SO bored (I didn't have a book, there is no inflight magazine and I still had not updated my MP3 player with podcasts - it still had sleep inducing recordings on it) I was reduced to tearing a piece of paper out of a notebook, putting a long word down (i.e. revolutionary) and seeing how many smaller words I could make out of it (an activity my late mother used to get me to do if I was bored).

We arrived on time, I hopped on a pre-booked bus to London and then on to Maija's house where she had a delicious veggie lasagna waiting for me. The next day we went to the feminist book fair (part of the New Suns Feminist Literary Fair at the Barbican). There we were inspired by the abundance of great writing by women about all aspects of feminism, modern culture as well as novels, poetry, criticism etc etc. Fabulous.

At the Barbican - this would be where I would live in London (if I could afford it)

I was on a mission* to try and find a copy of George Orwell's 1984 so after looking around the book fair we walked toward the British Museum where Oxfam has a second-hand book shop (this is something unique, as far as I know, to the UK - Oxfam has whole shops that are just second-hand books and also offer books for purchase online).

No luck with finding 1984 there and since we were in the neighbourhood we decided to head back to my favourite street for Indian food in London - Drummond Street - and the Ravi Shankar vegetarian buffet. On our way there we passed University College London that was having this academic fair - we returned there after lunch and got to see some really neat 'green projects' and lots of kids interacting with students (not much older than them) . It was inspiring and hopeful.

We then stopped by the Friends House (just across from Euston Station) for a coffee - the Friends House is a great hang out place with a good vibe, a well-stocked bookstore and a cafe (and clean, free toilets). When we got back to Peckham (where Maija lives) we stopped at a couple more second hand shops and then, when I'd pretty much given up hope, we stopped at a little hole in the wall place where the independent bookseller knew his stock and within seconds handed over a copy of 1984 priced at a pound. SOLD!

The next day (Sunday), my last full day on holiday (sob), Maija, her beau Shane and I went on a 'public transit' adventure through London. We took the bus to Deptford Bridge where we boarded the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) which winds its way through a forest of skyscrapers and other buildings - some offices and some housing. We got off at Royal Docks to walk over to the Emirates Air Line - a cable car system opened in 2012 - that takes riders in gondolas over the Thames from Royal Docks to Greenwich. All this for just 3.50 pounds (if using your Oyster Card). It was very cool.

Maija captured my best side in this shot :-)

An 'up-in-the-air' selfie

It was quite windy- which this photo does not really capture

We then found a place to have a South Indian lunch which was pretty good although a little bit slow coming and Shane headed off to catch up with friends while Maija and I walked around Greenwich sharing a yummy cheesecake at a local cafe and discovering the Greenwich Foot Tunnel. We got back to Peckham and enjoyed the veggie lasagna (again, it really was very good) and had an early night.

Walking in the Docklands

The Greenwich Foot Tunnel


The next morning I left with Maija to go to the train station - she going into the city and me going the opposite way to Gatwick. Unfortunately the 7:30 train to Clapham Junction (from where I would take another train to Gatwick) that I had intended to take was cancelled and the next one was, as you can imagine, packed full. I did feel bad as I struggled not to take up too much room and/or crush people's feet with my big bag. But it wasn't too long and we made it to Clapham Junction where I boarded a mostly empty train to Gatwick. I had no idea that I was actually going to arrive at the wrong terminal (South) and had to take the 4 minute free monorail to the North terminal. But it all worked out okay and within a short time I had checked my big bag, got a cheap cup of filter coffee at Pret (49 pence when you have your own cup) and ate some of the snacks I had packed for the flight.

We boarded on time and the flight was good - I slept quite a bit and we landed into Vancouver per schedule. I answered the customs form honestly which resulted in me having to eat a whole, hardboiled egg in a very short period of time (as per the customs' officers instruction). Due to a stupid error on my part (there was another flight to Victoria leaving at the same time but it was an Air Canada flight) I ended up having to sprint to the gate for the short flight to Victoria.

By 5:00 pm I was back in my apartment where I found that my lovely landlady Kim had stocked my fridge with the basics so that I could have breakfast the next morning without having to go to the store. I stayed up for a couple more hours and then tumbled into bed around 8:00 pm and slept quite well until the next morning.

It was a fabulous holiday - now it is time to think about how I am going to spend the rest of 2019 and what is going to be on the cards for 2020.


* I was looking for 1984 because of this episode of Theory of Everything Podcast which talks about (among other things) Margaret Atwood's theory about the novel and its definitely 'downer' ending. In ToE the host mentions the appendix to the book which I could not for the life of me remember reading. Hence the search for the book.

Feast for the eyes

This post is just images of the beautiful dahlias found in North Park (Nordpark) a lovely greenspace in Bielefeld that Diana and I visited one day during my time there. Enjoy.











Wednesday, October 9, 2019

Living it up in Lithuania

This was not my first visit to Lithuania - I had been lucky enough to go to Klaipeda to stay with my classmate's mother during the summer of 2013 - but this was my first visit to the capital city Vilnius. There is much to recommend Lithuania (and the other Baltic countries - Latvia and Estonia) - they are affordable, fascinating and offer a variety of attractions (museums, natural beauty, history) in a fairly small geographic area (for scale Lithuania is only about twice as large as Vancouver Island).

Like Bielefeld Vilnius offers a tourist card though Vilnius's version is MUCH more expensive (despite transit and the attractions themselves being much cheaper) - still I bought the 3-day version which cost 40 Euros and gave me free admission to about 20 attractions, discounted admission to about a dozen more, 3 days of transit and free food/drink offers at various restaurants (i.e. free dessert with a meal, free snack with purchase of an alcoholic drink).

Many of the museums I visited had excellent audio guides (though usually for an extra charge ranging from 1-3 Euros) - my advice is always go for the audio guide (and this is from someone who loves museums and reading but still often finds the sheer volume of text exhausting). Since my classmate Vilte lives in Vilnius I had the benefit of a local expert who showed me neat places to explore, translated menus and took me (with her husband Adrian driving and accompanying us) to destinations I never would have gotten to on my own.

The Vilnius Skyline(s)

Vilnius is an intriguing mix of old and new with a UNESCO-listed old town second only in size to that of Prague bordered to the North by the New Town (which is not really that new - mostly dating from the 19th century) and then spreading out into suburbs that still have early 20th century ornate wooden buildings (like Zverynas where Vilte and Adrian living) and of course masses of Soviet-era blocks of flats further out. Here are some photos of various skylines.


I think this shot is from the 'Hill of Three Crosses' which is located east of the Old City


View from the lookout that was located up the hill behind the hostel I stayed at

A view of two of Vilnius's more than two dozen churches

Another view from the hill of three crosses

A view from beside the Neris River looking toward the one remaining tower of the Upper Castle

Hot air balloons are synonymous with Vilnius - they make for a very pretty picture

A view from the TV tower showing the blocks of Soviet Era flats stretching to the horizon

More Soviet flats

and more ...

and more ...


Before I purchased the tourist card I went on two free walking tours - the 'standard' Old City tour and the 'Alternative Tour'. These tours, both led by young residents of Vilnius, were a great way to orient myself to the city as a whole and find out what I might want to explore more deeply.

Here are some images captured during these free tours.

The imposing Cathedral (consecrated 1783) with the bell tower beside it 

'The Walls Remember' Project that creates street art based on actual photographs of Vilnius's Jewish residents prior to World War II

Street Art (seen on the 'Alternative Tour')

Street art from this photo onward is from the Loftas Fest Open Gallery (visited on the Alternative Tour)










The following images are of street art seen outside of the Loftas Fest Open Gallery - the famous Vilnius mural of Trump kissing Putin has unfortunately been painted over (much to the chagrin of the 'Alternative Tour' guide Ieva who says the new picture which says 'Make empathy great again' totally ignores the negative effective on tour guides who can no longer bring visitors to see the world-renowned piece of art).

Kitten statue - memorial to Lithuanian writer Jurga IvanauskaitÄ— (1961 -2007).


Apparently this is supposed to be Tony Soprano - he is surveying the railroad tracks from a popular bar at the Vilnius Train Station

Soviet Tour and Jewish Tour

With the 3-day tourist card I was entitled to take two walking tours (usually 12 Euros each) and so I took the Soviet Tour and the Jewish Tour. Here are images captured on those tours.

The massive and long-since-abandoned sports hall

Graffiti featuring Gagarin and a recognizable name (Castro) and another that I need to Google (Mustafa)

Many early Jewish residents were glass blowers (as shown in this mural above the entrance to the Stikliai Hotel) 
This image and the one below are from the Jewish tour and are more depictions based on photographs from The Walls Remember project


Soviet Crackdown - 1991

Some of the most moving things I saw were the memorials to those that were killed in the Soviet Crackdown of 1991 - either crushed under tanks or shot. This TV tower is the same one as the shots of the Soviet-era buildings are taken from earlier in this post.

Coffins of some of those killed in the crackdown at a mass ceremony/funeral (Cathedral Square)

Crosses at the small museum within the TV Tower

Images from the 1991 Crackdown

Statue at the TV Tower - I believe it is something to do with the events of January 1991 but cannot find any information about it online

Images from Wandering Around

A large part of the pleasure of Vilnius is simply wandering around its twisty, narrow, cobbled streets replete with buildings of varying ages adorned with original architectural details or more recently added contemporary decoration or displays of goods for sale.

Delightful art added to a building (I think it was a hair salon but can't remember for sure)

I know I shouldn't love this (because of the plastic bags) but it was just so pretty in the sunshine

My reflection in the window of the florists (site of the plastic bag display shown in the previous photo)

I thought maybe this was the Lithuanian version of the green man

Facade of the building that houses the Museum of the Signatories

More paintings (same building as the first photo)

My friend Vilte tells me that this provocative sign is actually an advertisement for a play (the line at the top is its title)

Statue in one of the leafy squares of Vilnius

Strange wooden object on the corner of a street in the Jewish Ghetto

Side Tours from Vilnius

Vilte, Adrian and I went out to visit Vilte's mother at the cottage she has bought some two hours from Vilnius. While Adrian and Vilte picked the last of the apples to be taken off the trees before her mother closes up the property until springtime I went for a birdwatching walk in the forest. Unfortunately the time of year (and day) was not well suited to seeing much and the day was overcast making it hard to see much in the canopy (though I could hear the birds) - still it was a pleasant walk in a very still and desolate forest. After visiting with Vilte's mum the three of us went to a nearby lake and a walk in the forest there (where we didn't see any birds but quite a few frogs - ranging from about an inch long to 4-5 inches - and lots of mushrooms). Photos below courtesy of Adrian.

Vilte and I in the forest (thanks for the loan of the red raincoat Vilte)

Autumn colours

Forest against a dramatic sky (cloudy and threatening rain at the bottom but sunny at the top)

Vilte and I in black and white

Leaf litter on the forest floor
Mushroom

Silvery leaves

More mushrooms
The other side trip we made was to the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant which is being decommissioned (reactors were shut down in 2004 and 2009). Ignalina, when operational, produced 1500 MW from its RBMK reactor - if that name sounds familiar it is because it is the same kind of reactor as at Chernobyl. Despite having a spotless safety record Ignalina was forced to close because of political pressure after the Chernobyl disaster. Not surprisingly, since the HBO series Chernobyl interest in Ignalina has spiked and free tours of the information center and the buildings outside the controlled area are available as well as 60 Euro tours that will take you inside the actual reactor buildings (apparently these are booked solid well into January 2020).

The building on the left (with the AE logo) seems to be where employees go in and out of the controlled area buildings - the large chimneys are for ventilation not for off-gassing of radioactive steam

Another view of one of the chimneys

As you can see it was a beautiful day

Lunch in the canteen
Adrian at Ignalina

Very cool retro sign at the entry to the Ignalina Power Plant

Interesting orthodox church between two apartment buildings

The decommissioning process is fascinating and Vilte, Adrian and I, after taking in the free tour, agreed that we would be interested in paying the 60 Euros for the internal, guided tour. Maybe next time I am in Lithuania. We ended our visit with a meal in the canteen which was extremely affordable (less than $15 for a hot lunch for three).

On our way back into Vilnius we stopped at a lookout that overlooked a nature reserve where Lithuania's current president has created controversy by building a modern house that completely encapsulates a heritage house (that apparently he was not allowed to alter in any way - though it seems he has broken the rules by building in the nature reserve in the first place). The colours of the forest were gorgeous - illegal house or no :-) .

Dramatic fall colours

President's house is the black square one roughly in the centre of the photo 
The rest of my time in Lithuania was spent going to as many churches as I could manage (according to one of the walking tour guides Vilnius has 28 churches in the old city alone - I think I made it to about 16) and a couple of museums that I hadn't made it to on the 3-day card that I thought were worthwhile. Speaking of museums I highly recommend the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania and the KGB Museum (desperately sad and horrifying but important to understanding Lithuania's history - note that KGB Museum is no longer its official name but is the one everybody knows it by). In both these places get the audio guide which costs a little extra but is definitely worth it.

Vilte and Adrian were off to the UK for a wedding a day before I was to leave Vilnius and so we got together for lunch on Wednesday (October 2nd) at the hipster Downtown Food Hall. I spent the next day and a half visiting churches and wandering around taking in the ambiance before I had to leave the continent and return to London for a last few days of hedonism before returning to Canada.

On Friday October 4th I hopped on the #88 bus for the less than 15-minute trip to the airport for my first experience flying with RyanAir (I had already given away a bunch of stuff from my checked bag to get it down to 10kg). Despite being nervous about whether the bag I was taking as hand luggage was too large and my checked bag being 200 grams too heavy everything went fine (though it did seem I had materialized - as if beamed down from the Starship Enterprise - within Lithuania as my passport had no record of when and where I had entered the Schengen Area). Now when I look at this Canadian government page I see that is is important that I should have had my passport stamped - presumably when I entered into France at Calais on the bus from London - but as far as I know nobody on board the bus had this done. Oh well, the Lithuanian authorities let me out of Lithuania (presumably they had no problem with letting me leave) but if I travel by bus again I will try to figure out how to get a stamp.

More to come on the next entry which will describe my last few days of this trip in London as well as the journey back to Victoria.